Somewhere between the Oregon Caves and Redmond, Oregon, the kids started getting... touchy. Everybody that's done a long road trip knows touchy kids are bad news. We'd already stopped twice to stretch our legs, but four hours in the car is just too much. We needed a stop.
Just south of Bend we saw signs for the Newbery National Volcanic Monument. Perfect! A quick look at our maps and we found there was a short hike and several letterboxes near a beautiful waterfall. (Disclosure: I'd been to the highpoint on the rim in 2006 and might have been a little prepared with adventure ideas for a possible stop here.)
It's a 15 mile drive to the trailhead from Highway 97 with a stop at an entrance station. Our National Parks Pass got us in for free, otherwise there's a $10 charge for a three day pass. (A Northwest Forest Pass will also cover admission.) The road felt awfully twisty on the way in, but on our exit was fine so perhaps it was just anticipation.
Anticipation? For what?
The Big Obsidian Flow trail was our destination. About 1,300 years ago the Newberry Volcano let loose a flow of lava that cooled quickly into a vast field of black glass. Of course it's not a smooth sheet; it's twisted and jumbled and piled full of razor sharp blocks of obsidian and pumice. The Flow covers a square mile and feels like it goes on and on.
The trail itself is only a mile long and doesn't climb much. For just a little effort you'll find yourself completely surrounded by obsidian and pumice. The obsidian shines in the sun and in some places you can't see anything living.
That's not to say the Flow isn't live. Look carefully and you'll see small trees in the most unlikely spots. No water, no dirt, just a crack in a rock with a trunk emerging. It's amazing what can eek out a living in such a harsh environment. Add to the crazy: In August, frogs migrate across the Flow in such numbers guidebooks warn about not stepping on them.
When you go, start early to avoid the heat and wear boots or at least socks that will help protect your ankles from sharp edges. After you go to the Big Obsidian Flow, head back to toward the entrance and stop at Paulina Creek Falls.
Paulina Creek Falls is actually a pair of side-by-side 80-foot waterfalls that impresses even from the overlook a short walk from the parking lot. Below the falls the creek disappears into boulders that have broken away from the cliff above before reappearing down the valley. A steep switchbacking trail leads down to the bottom and is worth the hundred feet of loss and gain.
Above the falls, beyond the overlook, a trail follows the creek upstream to Paulina Lake. Along the way the creek flows slowly through a surprisingly green channel. (The trail continues around the lake, but the goods are between the Falls and the lake.)
When you go, bring snacks so you can wander as long as you like. Except the waterfalls, there's no single sight to see. Remember that as far as you go out you'll have to do at least that much to get back. Additionally, letterboxes are common throughout the area so make sure you bring your gear.
