Why do people think I'm crazy when I tell them I'm taking my son winter camping at Paradise on Mount Rainier? (No. It's not because I am crazy.) It's because it seems like a crazy thing to do if you don't know better. There's the snow. There's the cold. There's the Mountain. Surely, it does seem crazy. Especially if you are thinking of that true wilderness experience miles away from anyone else.
The secret is that although Paradise is packed to capacity during the summer and busy during a winter day it's almost empty on a winter night. So if you were thinking you'd need to climb half way to the summit to find peace and quiet you can put that notion aside. Once the gates close and everyone else goes home for the night you can be completely by yourself without going far.
And don't worry about permits and campgrounds. Once there's five feet of snow on the ground permits are free and you can camp anywhere that's 300 feet away from roads, parking lots, and marked trails. That means you're free to find the spot that works best for you. Most importantly, you can find the perfect view of the Mountain.
Our campsite was less than a mile from the car on the edge of a small copse of trees. The view out the door of our tent was all Mount Rainier. We looked across Deadhorse Creek and the Nisqually River at the glaciers grinding down the mountain. Although it was cloudy and snowing when we left the parking lot it cleared as the evening progressed and we were treated to an unbelievable sunset.
Staying warm is a legitimate concern, but one that's not hard to address. If you don't need to travel far to your camp you can afford to carry extra pads and sleeping bags. The forecast called for lows in the teens. Sleeping pads are critical to insulate from the snow. Happily, you can stack summer-weight pads and get the same R-value as a more expensive, insulated pad. Sleeping bags work much the same way. With a sleeping bag liner, a 20F bag, and a down quilt Henry was actually too warm. (And in case you are still cold when you pile on the down, fill a bottle with hot water and put it at your feet.)
In the morning, the clouds again hid the Mountain so we lounged in the tent until the blue sky started peeking through. Over the next few hours, the clouds dissipated until we were treated to a perfect day for our short hike out.
Camping in winter is not as crazy as everyone thinks. Or maybe it is. Maybe people who enjoy it are crazy. Having the Mountain all to ourselves was certainly crazy. And that sunset was just insane. Perhaps it's best if everyone thinks winter camping is too epic. That just means more opportunities for the crazies like us.
(Want more information on winter camping in Mount Rainier National Park? Check out this page.)
